Sustainability Strategy 2024
We started Peterson Stoop in 2013, with a passion for designing footwear. In the past decade we discovered that creating more sustainable products gave us the most satisfaction. Our sustainability journey began intuitively when we made our first Resoul™ in 2016. In the past years we have developed it to what it is now; a holistic approach where we take accountability for our impact on people and the planet. It is our goal to make a positive impact with our company and products.
1. People
At Peterson Stoop, our commitment to making a positive impact starts with the well-being and empowerment of our employees, interns and other people throughout our supply chain. We recognize that our workforce, suppliers, and customers play integral roles in achieving our goals.
Fair Labor Practices
We prioritize fair labor practices across our supply chain, this includes adherence to fair wage standards, reasonable working hours, and safe working conditions. Every worker involved in the production process should be treated with kindness and respect. At the moment we work with suppliers and factories from Europe.
Flip side:
Schedule bi-anual factory visits to production partners to see the working conditions firsthand. When possible we will choose factories and suppliers who work with 3rd party auditors to confirm fair labor practices. However we work with small companies, often these auditors are out of budget for small companies.
When: no planned deadline.
Inclusivity and diversity
It is our goal that people from marginalized groups feel welcome to work or internship with us. We welcome all applications from people with different personal characteristics or grounds, such as sex, gender, age, ethnicity, religion or belief, health status, disability, sexual orientation, gender identity and education. By fostering a positive and inclusive workplace culture, we aim to create a happy, motivated and engaged team.
Peterson Stoop has teamed up with Stichting BuitenGewoon and React where people with disabilities deconstruct used footwear, which Peterson Stoop re-uses in their patchwork products. It is a basic need to have a feeling of fulfillment at the end of the day. For people who are handicapped or have a mental or physical difficulty it can be challenging to achieve this. Whilst deconstructing the shoes there is no pressure to keep to a deadline and if mistakes are made it enriches the story of the deconstructed material. The shoes are deconstructed with a surgical blade, meaning they have to be very concentrated to complete this task. Clients of BuitenGewoon have given us feedback that they really enjoy the activity.
Peterson Stoop wants to make all people feel included, that is why we offer our shoes in all sizes. If we don’t have your size in stock, we will make them for you. If you need a wide or slim fit, we are always open to try to accommodate.
Flip side:
We want people to feel welcome on our website and Instagram page. However we realize that our website is not yet accessible enough for all blind or visually impaired people. Our first improvement has been to make sure that this sustainability strategy is available in text on Instagram. All new image uploads to our website and Instagram will be accompanied with an alt text. We will also be adding alt texts to all our previous image posts.
What: Add alt text to all images on website and instagram
When: to be completed (and continued) in 2025
Educating the next generation
Our commitment to people extends to the communities where we operate. We regularly have interns from The HMC in Amsterdam, following a 3 month internship with us. We aim to make a positive impact by supporting the new generation of footwear makers and designers. By letting them take part in all steps of the production process, they gain knowledge and appreciation for re-design and up-cycling of materials. Inspiring them that there is not only one way to make footwear, and that end of life should be considered at the start of the cycle. Our goal is to equip them with knowledge to use in their own practices in the future. We offer reasonable working hours, enough breaks and often check-ins to ensure if they are meeting their personal learning goals.
2. Planet
As a brand committed to sustainability, minimizing our environmental impact is at the core of our values. In this chapter, we outline our strategies for mitigating environmental impact across our entire product life cycle.
Carbon footprint
By upcycling used footwear we keep shoes out of landfill for longer and we prevent new uppers of shoes being made. We remove the old sneaker sole and replace it for a repairable leather sole, we call this process Resoul™.
Calculating the CO2 emissions of our Resoul™ independently proved to be quite a challenge. Therefore we used publicly shared information to make the following estimation:
A standard sneaker emits 14 kg CO2, from production to end of life.
Life cycle stages of a standard sneaker are:
Material Processing 4 kg CO2 This includes the farming of raw materials and production of synthetic materials, to the point where they are ready to be used in the next step. energy
Manufacturing 9.5 kg CO2 The production of the shoes. Cutting and stitching the upper, attaching the midsole and outsole.
Logistics 0,2 kg CO2 Transportation of materials to factories, transporting finished goods to be sold. Emissions come from fuel used to transport the shoes.
Usage and End of Life 0,3 kg CO2 At the end of life, 85% of sneakers are sent to landfill or incinerated, releasing harmful chemicals.
To calculate the CO2e of our Resoul™ we used the following information: The approximate CO2 emission of a complete leather shoe is 24,5 kg CO2. The sole of a shoe is 53% of the total shoe. Therefore the CO2e of our Resoul™ is estimated at: 53% * 24,5 kg co2 = 13kg CO2 emission calculated in life cycle analysis for the Resoul™.
From this point there are multiple other calculations we can make.
- Using a used sneaker (thus not making a new sneaker) saves = - 14 kg CO2e
- Saving a pair of existing sneakers from being added to landfill or incineration saves = - 0,3 kg CO2
- Making a Resoul™ adds = + 14 kg CO2
- Making shoes that will last for life saves (5x sneakers + 5x leather shoes) = - 192,5 CO2e
It is up to you to choose what calculation feels the most correct. It all depends on how you, the consumer, chooses to use our products.
Flip side:
The accuracy of our carbon footprint assessment depends on the quality and specificity of the data we have collected. Therefore we need to add a disclaimer that this information is in no way a display of the actual data. However we are confident that our estimate is as close to the actual number as we could get. Our future goal would be to have the numbers recalculated using a verified third-party Life Cycle Analysis tool, such as Carbonfact, however we currently do not have the budget for an annual subscription plan of €10.000. The results of our assessment helps us identify areas for improvement. Leather has a high CO2e, however we could not find any public data showing the difference between vegetable tanned leather CO2e and chrome tanned leather CO2e. At the moment we have no plans to stop using leather, however we will be researching leather alternatives in 2025, to offer alternatives to what we have now.
What: Research Leather Resoul™ alternatives
When: 2025
3. Materials
In the following list, we break down each material we use during the making process of our shoes. By doing so we inform our clients and stakeholders about the environmental implications of different materials, empowering them to make informed decisions and to inspire transparency. By sharing our material list we show our commitment and dedication to responsible and ethical practices. By publicly disclosing our materials we can be held accountable for our choices. This provides a basis for continuous improvement.
100% Used sneakers
Our most important raw material is vintage footwear. Usually our clients send in their own sneakers for us to Resoul ™. For our other styles we collect sneakers from all over Europe. We source sneakers through our recycling partner Vive in Poland. Next to this we also use well known re-sell platforms such as Ebay, Vinted and Marktplaats to source specific styles. We also regularly receive donations from brands and clients.
Flip side:
We also do not have a solution for the used soles we remove from old shoes.
What: Find a suitable way to reuse or recycle the soles.
When: 2025
Our vegetable tanned leather
All the virgin leather we use to make our shoes is 100% vegetable tanned. The tanning process is what transforms a skin or a hide into leather. There are different techniques to produce leather. Chrome tanning, the most common method of tanning, uses chemicals. Opposed to Vegetable tanned leather, which is a technique that makes use of natural tannins derived from plant materials such as tree bark, leaves and fruits. This traditional method has been used for centuries. We currently work with an Italian tannery, from the region of Tuscany that produces our leather, called Volpi. By working with them we invest in preserving traditional craftsmanship because they are a member of Consorzio Vera Pelle. By being a member of this consortium they undergo a periodic audit and comply with their sustainability manifesto. Vegetable tanned leather is extremely durable, it wears down slowly and while it does it becomes more beautiful after each use. Due to care, use and sunlight, vegetable tanned leather develops a patina; a beautiful dark sheen that only develops on vegetable tanned leather because of how it is tanned.
Flip side:
Leather is a byproduct of the meat industry. Although the definition of byproduct can be discussed, we are convinced it is an economic byproduct, because more than 97% of the economic value of a cow comes from its meat. However if the cow skins would go into landfill instead of being made into leather they would emit 94 kg co2/square meter. Opposed to 110 kg co2/square meter when the skins are turned into leather. Leather in general has a large carbon footprint in comparison to other materials. However at the moment we choose to use vegetable tanned leather because of its durability, repairability and beauty. We are convinced that the combination of these three lets us create beautiful products that will be loved, kept, repaired and worn. Using the products you have is a sustainable act. Compared to alternatives, which are usually synthetic, leather biodegrades much faster. The most common alternative is synthetic leather, which is essentially plastic that is made from fossil fuels. Depending on its tanning method, leather can biodegrade in 50 years. While synthetic leather takes up to 200 years to biodegrade.
What: Research Leather Resoul™ alternatives
When: 2025
Our cork
Cork is an amazing product in terms of comfort, durability, design and ecological footprint. We source our big granulated cork sheets from a family business based in Portugal, called 3D Cork. This component comes from a tree named cork-oak and is 100% natural. In production the cork granules are mixed with rubber to create the sheets. It is then hand shaped into wedges and used for our shoes. We have tried to use 100% pure cork, however we had issues where the sole would break and crack, therefore we choose to switch to a cork and rubber blend.
Our rubber
The rubber soles we use for our shoes are produced by Vibram made of high quality EVA, which is a by-product of oil. Even though it offers great comfort and durability to the wearer, this material is virgin, hardly recyclable and has a terrible carbon footprint. Throughout the industry, finding a good alternative to this material is a great challenge. Through the European Union we have been supported through the Worth Partnership to develop more sustainable soles, that is why we are currently also using TPU outsoles, produced by Givans Fondi. Which is a fully recyclable material.
Our glue
Shoemaking implies the use of glue in many steps and we have found a way to tackle it, by stitching instead of gluing. However, we can not replace all of the steps with stitching. Little by little, doing wearing tests, we were able to replace the solvent based glues for Renia Aquilim 315, a water based alternative. So far, 20% of the glue we use in our studio is water-based.
What: Research if it is possible to use Renia Aquilim 315 for all glueing steps.
When: Research to be completed in 2025
Shipping
When a client orders a pair of our shoes we shit through DHL GoGreen, they offset at least 30% of the CO2e.
Flip side:
Local production would be preferred above shipping our shoes over the world.
When: Currently no plans to set up local production sites.
Packaging
We use minimalist packaging. Where possible we use recyclable or recycled materials, we aim for functional and environmentally responsible packaging. Our shoe boxes are made from recycled cardboard, and wrapped in newspaper before shipping. By doing so, we are able to use one box per client instead of double boxing an order.
Flip side:
At the moment we are using our last supply of plastic tape, when it is finished we will switch to a more sustainable option.
4. Design
By combining creative and innovative design with a deep knowledge of footwear care and repair we aim to create products that are designed with their whole lifecycle in mind.
Design for repair
When we start designing a new pair of shoes we consider their whole lifecycle. Components that wear down first must be designed with durability in mind. By developing new production techniques and combining them with traditional repair techniques, we create repairable products that can be executed by us or a local cobbler. Extending the life cycle of our shoes through repair is our contribution to keeping more shoes out of landfill.
Our shoes are designed with repairability in mind. Specific parts can be replaced or repaired easily. By doing so we can extend the life of the shoes and reduce the need for the replacement of the whole shoe.
Whilst designing our shoes we have developed our own repair-friendly construction; Resoul™. The goal of our design is not only to create an aesthetically pleasing shoe, but also a design that facilitates repair. Our insoles and outsoles are replaceable, without compromising the design.
Flip side:
Overconsumption of repairable footwear is still overconsumption. It is more sustainable to buy fewer shoes than to own many sustainable shoes. Our shoes are made to be worn and enjoyed. Wearing them will naturally result in wear and the need for repairs. Although our goal is to produce shoes that can last a lifetime, we understand that people might not always want to keep wearing them. They may not wish to go through the steps of care and repair, or the shoes might be beyond repair for various reasons.
As a company, we consider what the end of life of our shoes will look like and take responsibility for this part of their life cycle. We offer the following advice:
- Wear the shoes you have. If they are broken, try to repair them or have them repaired. From our standpoint, shoes are never beyond repair; there is always a way to reuse the raw materials.
- Get creative with old shoes. Consider what you can make from them—perhaps an art piece? You could also donate them to local upcycle designers or bring them back to us if you are an Amsterdam local.
- Re-sell or gift usable shoes. If your shoes are still in good shape but you no longer wear them, consider re-selling them or gifting them to someone.
- Dispose responsibly. If you must dispose of your shoes, look for the most local recycling facility.
By following these steps, you can help extend the life cycle of your footwear and contribute to a more sustainable future.
Reducing waste by nesting pattern pieces
When using virgin materials for our products we consider the waste created by production. By using materials more efficiently, we can contribute to a reduction in overall environmental impact, including energy use and resource consumption.
Reducing waste through nesting pattern pieces involves optimizing the layout of pattern pieces on a material, such as fabric or leather, to minimize unused space and material remnants. We carefully analyze the shape and size of pattern pieces to find the most efficient way to arrange them on the material. Rotate, flip, or mirror pieces to fit them together more closely.
In several of our designs we have started thinking about the possibility of nesting pattern pieces at the beginning of the design phase. By doing so we can nest even more efficiently and save more material. This means that we sometimes prioritize material optimisation above aesthetics, however working within these constraints builds our creativity and unique design language.
Flip side:
We are still developing a system for utilizing material remnants. Small scraps can often be used for accessories, patches, or smaller components in future products.
What: Use material remnants as raw material for new designs
When: 2025
Care
It is our goal to design and produce shoes that can last a lifetime. Because of the materials and our specific design it is possible to take care of your shoes and make them last longer. This care guide can help our clients prolong the life of their footwear and reduce environmental impact. This process can be done when needed, however it is not recommended to do it more often than once every 10 wears.
Materials Needed:
- Soft brush or cloth,
- -Mild soap or leather cleaner
- Warm water
- Soft cloth
- Leather conditioner suitable for vegetable tanned leather
- Shoe tree
- Remove Laces:
Take out the shoelaces to access all areas of the shoe.
- Brush Off Loose Dirt:
Use a soft brush or cloth to gently remove any loose dirt or debris from the surface of the shoes. Pay attention to seams, stitching, and crevices.
- Prepare Soapy Water:
In a bowl, mix a small amount of mild hand soap or specialized leather cleaner with warm water. Avoid using harsh detergents or soaking the shoes.
- Dampen Cloth:
Dampen a soft cloth in the soapy water. Wring out excess water to prevent oversaturation.
- Wipe Surface:
Gently wipe the entire surface of the leather shoes with the damp cloth. Focus on areas with stains or visible dirt. Be cautious not to scrub too hard, in case of damaging the leather.
- Dry Naturally:
Allow the shoes to air-dry naturally. Avoid using direct heat sources like heaters or hairdryers, as excessive heat can cause leather to crack.
- Condition the Leather:
Once the shoes are dry, apply a small amount of conditioner on the leather components of the shoe. Use a soft, clean cloth to evenly distribute the conditioner, paying attention to areas that may be more prone to drying, such as the toe box and heels. Conditioning the leather will keep the leather supple and prevent cracking.
- Reinsert Laces:
Once the shoes are fully dry and conditioned, reinsert the shoelaces.
Storage
It is important to store your shoes in a preferably dark and dry place. By using shoe trees you will maintain the shape of the leather, and prevent creasing that compromises the integrity of the leather.
Protection from Elements
Your shoes are meant to be worn, however it is important to take care of your shoes when they have become wet. We don’t recommend wearing your shoes in heavy rain or snow, because excessive exposure to water may result in uneven color changes. Don’t worry if you get caught in the rain. Dab excessive moisture off with dry cotton cloth, use a shoe tree and let them air dry, in a dark and dry place.
5. Transparency and Accountability
We believe in providing clear and accurate information, about our practices, sourcing, and impact, transparently. By sharing information about our suppliers, sourcing practices, and production processes, we aim to empower consumers to make informed choices while holding ourselves accountable for our actions.
We recognize the need to set clear goals, measure progress, and be accountable for the impact we have on people and the planet. By documenting and sharing our current stage, we ensure that this data guides our future actions. Our goals include reducing carbon emissions, increasing the use of sustainable materials, and enhancing our social impact. Regularly assessing our progress against these goals ensures accountability and drives positive change. As part of this commitment, we will assess our sustainability performance yearly. By sharing our successes and challenges, we invite feedback from clients and stakeholders and demonstrate our dedication to continuous improvement.
What: Sustainability performance assessment
When: July 2025
Conclusion
In conclusion, our sustainability strategy reflects our commitment to creating a positive impact on people and the planet. By focusing on fair labor practices, better materials, conscious design, transparency and accountability, we strive to stay a leader in sustainable footwear, setting an example for the industry and inspiring positive change. Through continuous improvements and collaboration with our stakeholders, we aim to build a more sustainable and responsible future for our brand and the global community. The research, writing and development of our sustainability strategy was made possible by Stimuleringsfonds Creatieve Industrie. In the past months we have learnt that this document is ever evolving, if you have any feedback for improvement of questions please do not hesitate to contact us here.
Sources:
https://eu.nisolo.com/pages/sustainability?shpxid=84be7836-1dea-4f13-b10c-858fefb2e83d
https://designmuseum.nl/derde-verdieping/sneakers/ze-sneaken-je-kast-in-sneakers/
https://www.bcorporation.net/en-us/
https://project.veja-store.com/en
https://nl-nl.allbirds.eu/pages/sustainable-practices
https://www.storymfg.com/pages/manifesto
circulardesign.nike.com
https://www.innovationintextiles.com/reality-check-for-circularity-at-future-fabrics-expo-24/